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  1. Default ride height modifications

    thought that i would post some pictures of the ride height adjustments that i've made to my '74 Javelin AMX.

    i got the adjustable coil over springs from WSC Motorsports in Atlanta. super folks to deal with and really knowledgeable.

    here's a pic of the original ride height when i got the car in feb '05

    here's a pic of the ride height now with the coil over spring in the front and the leaf spring blocks in the back.

    here's a pic of the WSC Motorsport coil over spring installed.

    here's a pic of the rear end with the ride height adjusted.

    here's a pic of the front end with the ride height adjusted.

    in all honesty, i have to be a bit careful with speed bumps now, but the handling of the car is the best i have ever felt.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    south london

    Default looking good

    hi there.

    i think that the lowering of the car looks great... can u please send me details of the lowering springs as i am considering lowering my 71" amx. i would also like to run it on 15" minilites...... do u think that id get away with it


  3. Default lowering the javelin

    i used the coil over springs from WSC Motorsports in Atlanta for the front. They have adjustable ride height. I installed their front shock as well. In the back, i used the belltech lowering block kit and the WSC Motorsports rear shock. WSC was really knowledgeable and helpful. they can basically custom fit what you want to do with your car.

    i honestly didn't know what a minilite was until i looked it up on the internet. it looks like an 8 spoke wheel. similar to what you see on a mini cooper these days. to me, i think that would be a unique look and really set your car apart. i can't speak any about the fit though.

    from my experience on the '71-'74 body style, i'd just say be careful with how wide of a tire you put on the front, as it can tend to scrub in the lower part of the wheel well.

    also, if you have headers on your '71, be careful how much you lower it. i don't have headers, and I still have to be real careful on speed bumps so that I don't scrub my exhaust pipes.

    i would be interested in seeing pics posted when you make the modifications.

  4. #4


    Yours looks cool but I think you will get a lot of understeer in heavy cornering since your car will be riding on a bumpstop.

    Dosen't seem to have much front clearance (travel)... are you running without rubber snubbers?

    I am using heavy duty springs which have 7 coils and a little thicker than than stock (6 coils)... I do believe they are for 70 hornet HD and 72 AMX only.

    They give ruffly 1.5" lower stance than stock... yes I am not using the doughnuts.

    Since Penski and Donohue did a lot of testing back in they day with AMC... They came up with the best setup bar none,and it seems too simple (kinda like Shelby Mustangs, after all AMC copied Ford the the setup)... Move the spindle on the upright 3/4" . This will give you about 1 3/4" drop with 3" travel.

    This will need to be done by a shop.

    For the rears I am using 87' S10 4x4 HD rear springs and intermidate angled blocks for 1/2" drop.

    I did not go for the lower stance as much so I can fit Ford SVT Cobra 17" x 9.5" with 6 inch offset rims (2" more offset than stock)... Need to remove (Radius) the rolled edge in the wheel wells (where the trim mounts to), this gives 3/8" extra space for tires. Also I am using a Ford F250 9" rear housing (uncut) so I can have 65" track for the heavy offset. Total track width is 62" 2" wider than stock. Fronts are compensated by modified upright and spindle to give +2" offset to clear the coil springs. Total offsets are including fabricated late model GM caliper arangments and late model Ford rotors.

    Donohue explained that the Kesley Hayes rotors did not wear well under heavy use... to shorten his explaination, look at what they are doing today; forgien and domestic cars are using almost 0" offset rotors from the factory. Donohue mentioned rotor offset was not good in his testing. Plus today's 13.25" x 1.25" rotors beat out any roter back then.

    Also having the brakes close to the outer rim keeps them cooler too. Thus junking the stock brake system.

    I could have spent the money on kits, but I figure it is better to be able to find parts at a local NAPA than having to search on the Internet.

  5. Default

    i'd love to see some pics of your setup. i've given some thought to exchanging wheels/tires combination, but haven't done so yet.

    i don't really have an understeer problem that i've felt, but i'm not really that aggressive with the car either. i feel like the ride height gives a much more level platform when i do take hard corners though. much improved over the previous stock setup that i had.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    So. Indiana


    What? No understeer? You haven't been to an auto-cross yet. Have you? That's the only place I've ever had a problem and I still won my class against compitition I thought would beat me. I always gave all the credit to the car though, an electric blue 71 SST with fac. white and red stripes nose to rear!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    North Texas

    Default Minilites

    Minilites are both a great wheel and a great look for any AMX/Javelin. I had 14" Minilites and now 15" Panasports on my '70 AMX (see my photos in the gallery). The 15" Minilites would be a perfect fit, while the Panasports need a chamfer in the center hole to clear a flange on the rear brake drum. Both have 0 offset. Both give proper clearance to the fender of a stock car.
    Panasports are a few $$ cheaper, but after paying for the machining, the difference is unimportant. Both are among the lightest wheels available.

    Quote Originally Posted by javoman
    hi there.

    i think that the lowering of the car looks great... can u please send me details of the lowering springs as i am considering lowering my 71" amx. i would also like to run it on 15" minilites...... do u think that id get away with it


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