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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    3

    Question 70 Javelin Suspension Rebuild

    Thanks in advance for any help! I think my 70 Javelin is in need of a suspension rebuild. Does anyone have a good reference for getting this done? I have the 69 tech manual - but from what I'm reading that was the old suspension and doesn't apply to my car. EDIT - I just ordered the 1970 tech manual!! FINALLY - it will be a very good resource for this.

    I'm figurin this rebuild needs to be done but maybe you all can give me some guidance. I came to this point after a looong period of having the car sit in the driveway with no use. After getting it running again I found that the steering wheel would shimmy back and forth at ~35mph. I got home and jacked up one side of the car and was able to move the raised front tire side to side about an inch (maybe 1.5"). All the ball joints on the control arms etc moved all over the place. The vertical play (upper and lower ball joints) is fairly minimal - I've repalced those joints a few years back. The front end (idler/pittman/tie rod etc) is about 15 years old (my Dad had it rebuilt by Sears back when I was in high school).

    I'd like to do this myself this time and would like to get this front end fixed for good - i.e. do it right and maybe even upgrade it a bit. The car already has front and rear sway bars - but they are generic - not the supped up ones I've read about on this forum. Thanks again!
    Last edited by Super Ry; 03-09-2006 at 12:25 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    victorville,CA
    Posts
    172

    Default loose front end

    a shimmy that starts a 35 sounds like tire balance,constant wobble-bent rim,loose wheel bearings.as for ball joints,the upper is the "load carrying" ball joint on amc suspension(70 & up javelin).inner and outer tie rods are cheap and easy to replace.ditto for idler arm.pitman arm(steering box) requires puller. best advice is to do it all at once then have thrust angle(4 wheel) alignment done.when it comes to steering you want it tight and right.if you do it bit by bit you will waste money on alignments,each repair needs re-alignment so you wont waste those new tires amc-ya
    former ASE front end tech---retired

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Thanks - I really appreciate the guidance. I hadn't thought about changing out the upper and lower ball joints - but hey while I have it appart and saves me yet another alignemnet down the road a ways.

    I thoguht about the bent rims/wheel balance issue, but when I got home and jacked up the driver side I was surprised at how much I could move that driver side tire (the passenger side was still on the ground so was not moving at all). The difference between the 2 was quite a bit and I was able to see all the tie rod joints slop all over the place.

    I'm also fairly certain I need to tighen up the steering gear as theres a lot of slop in the steering wheel. I can drive down the road and turn the wheel 2 to 3 inches before the car enters any sort of turn. I'm hoping the new tech manual will spell it out for me.

    I have to admit I've not been the best at greasing the joints. The car itself has seen less and less use over the years. So this will be a good reminder for me to be better at maintanance.

    Thanks again for the help!
    Last edited by Super Ry; 03-10-2006 at 09:34 AM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    victorville,CA
    Posts
    172

    Default

    be carefull about tightening steering box,if you take out too much free play it will bind at full turn!if you are not sure as how,let an experienced tech do it.the adjustment should be done with care because i have seen many try to take out slop in the linkage by tightening the box instead of replacing worn tie rods and ruining a good steering box!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    3

    Default Thanks again

    That is a GREAT warning. I have zero experience with the steering box so I will definately let someone else (pro) tackle it (after I have replaced the tie rods etc). Thanks again.

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