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  1. #1

    Default 2 Electrical Questions

    Well another brake light on.lol.Press brakes nothing,when I turn the lights on the brakes are all light up.I checked the switch by the pedal and when I put a volt meter to it nothing but when I press on the brakes I get volts. Would that mean switch is working??? Any Ideas?????on what steps to check.Also no turn signals.You think it is in the cam in the steering whell??? I guess I'm reaching.
    Second question .Took the steering wheel cover off and found the ground wire disconnected on the cover.Hooked it up and when you press the horn I can now hear the horn relay clicking but no horn.Any Ideas????
    What a cluster ****.lol.

    Any Ideas would be greatly appreciated.Thank you.
    I've got a harness complete for the engine and dash ready to yank.lol.lol.
    Oh 70 javelin sst 390

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    victorville,CA
    Posts
    172

    Default

    red wire to brake light switch should have power always(key on or off),green wire only has power when switch on(foot on brake pedal).ground wire under steering wheel cover activates horn relay so if relay is clicking,check the horns to see if power getting there.if so your horns are toast/rusted/dead.did you find those two wires where mine were??? call me @ 760-486-4162,sounds like someone was under your dash prior to you getting that car.

  3. #3

    Default

    Yea I found them. Ring, Ring.lol.lol.

  4. #4

    Default

    red wire to brake light switch should have power always(key on or off),green wire only has power when switch on(foot on brake pedal).

    Everything works like the above. Where do you think I should check next???
    Like I said when I turn the lights on both filaments on the bulbs are lit.

    With lights turned off and key turned on press foot on brakes nothing.

  5. #5

    Default

    One last thing.When I put the 4 ways on (emergency) flashes in the front.
    Nothing in the back.
    When I put the 4 ways on with the lights on .Flashes in the front. lights are on in back but no flash.
    I don't know what this meanslol.lol. But thats what I'm getting.lol

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    victorville,CA
    Posts
    172

    Default

    sounds like a lost puppy was under that dash--sounds like they spliced the tailight lead into the brake light lead and also cut the brake light lead from going into the turn signal control,do front turn signals work(although they may not flash w/rear not connected)? 4 way flasher shares same wires as turn signals.let's just hope that person isn't the new electrician hired to rewire someones house amc-ya

  7. #7

    Default

    Don't know if it'll help, but here's a link to a wiring diagram:

    http://www.amx-perience.com/wiring.html


    .





  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    victorville,CA
    Posts
    172

    Default

    looked at the diagram posted by Big Bad AMX,check that green wire going to the turn signal connector,it should not have anything spliced into it.also note that once at the connector(running up steering column)the color codes change on the harness going up to the turn signal switch(see diagram).another place to check is AFTER the wires leave the turn signal switch(the leads for the left and right REAR bulbs)check to see if any splicing has been done along there also.that could explain why the BRAKE/TURN filament on the bulb lights up when lights are turned on if the left and right rear bulb leads were spliced into the lead for rear tailights at some point.(anywhere between underdash to tailight sockets)--seen that done by those master techs who think tailights are supposed to be the BRIGHTEST of the two filaments.i run into this when "trainees" fix lights on the semi-trailers i pull while trucking.
    Last edited by javelinjeff; 03-31-2007 at 07:17 PM.

  9. #9

    Default

    Thanks Jeff and Big Bad Amx for your help.I'm not going to let this beat me.lol.Yea Right.lol.Just went out and checked if front lights would flash they don't.I'm going to go thru the steps you told me and see what happens using the wiring diagram.I've got 3 total now plus looking at a wiring harness on the kitchen table.
    This thing notice I said thing looks great inside and out but man is the wiring messed up.

    When I hooked up the ground on the steering wheel cover I smelled something burning.Touched the drivers horn and the wire leading to it was melting.Disconnected the ground and that stopped.
    Here's the best one.you know the lock were you put the key on the steering wheel well you can just turn that with your hand and the car will start. No key.
    You guys ready to come down to Fla. all expenses paid?????????
    keep looking for smoke down here in the south.If you see it that will be me.lol.lol.
    You guys are awesome.Thank you

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    victorville,CA
    Posts
    172

    Default

    the more you tell me about this car-----sounds like someone pulled out the ignition key at some time with a slide hammer(like in the original version of gone in 60 seconds).as to the horns, they are definitely fried/shorted out.replace those with known good ones.of course you will have to replace the wire from the horn relay to the horns now that things got a little hot through that wire.and of course make sure no other wires next to the horn leads got melted too.and if someone got abusive with the turn signal switch when the steering wheel was pulled to get access to the lock cylinder on the column---another can of worms could have been opened(please tell me the turn signal switch feels proper,not all loose and sloppy).after you telling me about that starter engaging when you put your foot on the brake????,i'm beginning to wonder just how bad things could be under that dash.

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