View Full Version : suspension differences?

10-21-2009, 10:08 PM
can anyone tell me what is the difference in the lower a-arms from 68/69 to 70 on up. Are they different sized tapers on the ball joint? Are the arms different length? Or are the sway and strut holes different? I have a 68 and want to do some tricky things with the suspension such as coil over shocks and getting rid of the trunion. The AMracing kit does some but it is not really available and it puts the shock mount hole in the top of the spring tower. Not very attractive or original appearing. Can a 70 lower a-arm possibly be used with a 70 up spindle and a custom tubular upper a arm and coil over shocks in the original placement (like a Mustang 2 coil over). As far as the lower strut
it will be replaced with a 1" tube and heim ends to give more clearance around the starter area. A new bolt in bracket that connects under the frame and bolts into the factory holes is being fabricated.

12-13-2009, 02:48 PM
could be wrong here,,but i think the lower arms are the same.the upper assembly is totally different however,as with the steering knuckle

12-27-2009, 08:11 PM
I bought a set of 70-up spindles and had the bottom ball joint holes enlarged for Chrysler lower screw in balls, Chrysler upper screw in balls fit. So I made lower a-arms from 1 1/4 .120 wall DOM with 3/4 chromemoly heim ends and adjusters the same length as stock 68 lower a-arms. The sway bar now has heim end connections as well as the struts which were remounted under the frame for more clearance by the starter. I have a juice clutch installed so I don't use the stock linkage. The upper A-arms are also 1 1/4 .102 wall DOM
with 3/4 moly heim ends with reducing bushings for the 1/2 bolts. The adjustable coilover shocks are mounted as close to the lower ball joint as possible and a special bracket mounts to the original shock mount and upper a-arm mounts for support. All parts are tig welded and in the plating shop for a nice finish. All parts are bolt on. No cutting. No welding. I reserched this type suspension thru several places and they all tell me the same thing. Getting rid of the rubber bindings will make it smoother. Nothing binds and it all moves nicely. Can't wait to try it out. I have a machinist friend who machined all the parts and a welding friend to do all the burning. I did all the fitting measuring and designing. Hope to have this at Hot August nights in Reno

01-09-2010, 01:17 PM
being an ex suspension tech,i would like to see what you have done.the early suspension was a joke compared to other makes with the center trunnion bushing and the lethal coil springs.although spring removal is easy with the proper amc tool,,i never liked having a spring in the compressed position anywhere near me as i worked on the front end.also 2 tools were needed to drop the crossmember if doing a v-8 conversion on a 6 cyl car,,so the coil over set-up sounds like the ideal switch.posts some pics if possible